10 Lessons from 100(ish) Days in Delhi
In late 2021, I finally made the move to Delhi. It has now been 100(ish) days, and here are some things I have seen and learned.
- The air quality here is bad … no, like really bad!!
I can taste the air in Delhi. On particularly bad days, my eyes get irritated, and I have a dull, persistent headache. It is has led to an unconscious mindset that the outside is poisonous, a pervasive feeling that gnaws at how I see the outside world.
I am extremely fortunate and privileged to have access to high-end air filters in the house and air proofing (with great thanks to my employer). The vast vast majority of Delhiites suffer through pollution with no recourse, and we are only now starting to understand the terrifying implications of poor air quality on health outcomes.
2. Indian history is long, fascinating, and all around
I live in the Green Park neighborhood of South Delhi, and within a 20-minute walk of my house, there are more than 20 historical monuments that are over 500 years old. Most of these monuments date from the Delhi Sultanate period, a period from the 13th to 16th Century, when Delhi sat as the capital for various Islamic dynastic rulers. This history is filled with family intrigue, the rise and fall of empires, and philosophical thinking and poetry.
The photo to the left is of Chor Minar. This sits at the center of a roundabout down the street from the Airbnb I stayed at when we first got to Delhi. It was built in the 13th Century and it is believed that the little holes you see on the turret held the severed heads of Mongol prisoners!
3. Monkeys, peacocks, and deer … oh my!
I am very fortunate to live right next to a large park, so every day I like to take a walk around the park and say hello to the menagerie of animals that call the park home.
4. The cost of labor is really low
Every morning, I am woken by a loud crash as two newspapers hit my bedroom window. The cost for this daily service is 300 INR (around $4 USD) … FOR THE MONTH! Less than the cost of one Sunday New York Times, which one has to slouch to the bodega to pick up for themselves. Additionally, a kind gentleman picks up our garbage every morning for 100 INR (less than $1.50 USD) for the month.
The cost of labor is cheap, and this underlies a much more troubling and pervasive issue apparent in Delhi — extreme poverty and inequality.
5. Fresh produce is cheap, easily available, and delicious
Every morning, a cavalcade of salesmen walk or cycle down the street singing out details of the goods they are looking to sell. It is reminiscent of “Who Will Buy” from Oliver, but Indian-styled. After walking down the street, they set themselves up on the street corners to sell their wares.
Many of these salesmen (and yes they are all men) sell fruits and vegetables and they are so much fresher and tastier than produce I have purchased from supermarket shelves in Australia or the US. Every purchase comes with some fresh coriander and green chillis, a little tasty bonus.
6. Reminders of inequality are omnipresent
Poverty is everpresent and this can be challenging to handle. It is also one of the things that I most appreciate about living in Delhi. It necessitates challenging conversations and an internal reckoning of how one perceives their obligations to their community, and to humanity as a whole.
Some days, it can be too much and las led me to frustration, anxiety, and anger. The picture on the left is of a brand-new, sports car. The blue number plate signifying that it is registered to a diplomatic mission (in this case a UN agency). It raises the question of where the money came from to pay for this luxurious extravagance.
However, on the best days, it can be an eye-opening reminder of the opportunities that exist to help others. The picture on the right is of an informal school set in a slum where Santa is giving out gifts to children.
7. There are so many gastronomic delights
It is no surprise that the food is incredible. But what has been surprising is the diversity of culinary options. There are so many sub-cultures across South Asia — this is particularly evident across the cuisines, and Delhi has the best of it all.
8. Sensory overload
Delhi can be a lot. There are a LOT of people, the smells are often pungent and it can be hard to find a place with peace and quiet. With the unfortunate COVID-wave triggered by Omicron, Delhi has toned down in the past month. However, I look forward (with a level of trepidation) to Delhi returning to its boisterous best.
9. Jugaad — Indian’s are the OG hackers
Jugaad (or in Australia what we might call a bodge job) can be thought of as the quick-fix solution and it is pervasive across Delhi. From the way that folks drive to internet connections and home repairs, Jugaad is a way of life.
The picture below is taken from the base of a power pole in the middle of a very busy road. What you may be able to see is that someone has hot-wired the power to create their own power socket. I would guess this was done for the homeless individuals that may make their informal settlements on the side of the road.
10. The world really is same, same but different
Despite all of the differences, I have been reminded once again that we are all so much more alike than we are different. But that little bit of what makes us different is the masala (or spice) of life.
